The Second Scariest Instrument in the Band
Welcome band directors. This is information from a presentation that I made at Henderson State University. I hope you find it helpful.
The Bassoon
Donna Foley – Private lesson teacher - SE Dallas Metroplex
Who should you pick as a potential bassoonist?
www.learntworeed.com/bassoon-assembly--care.html
How do you moisten a bassoon reed?
The music that requires Tenor Clef isn’t seen until high school or college. When should I teach it?
- I find that the best bassoon students are those that are studious, willing to try new things, and are flexible. Don’t, however, pass over the kids with Asperger’s if they have a love of music. I had one make 4th in state of Texas 5A.
- It is important that the family be able to purchase reeds, unless you are supplying them.
- Lessons are vitally important. There are things about bassoon that aren’t available in books.
- The student must have a good sense of pitch. Bassoonists tune while playing.
- I have had both students that started on bassoon or started on another instrument. They sometimes miss basics in year one if moving from a treble clef instrument to bassoon because of the clef difference. At the end of year 2, they are in the same place, no matter what they started on.
- This is the biggest headache of double reed players. As a general rule, the mass marketed bassoon reeds are over scraped and too small because they assume your student will not form a proper embouchure. This will leave you with a thin non characteristic sound. They cannot be adjusted because there isn’t enough cane left. They are done by machine and generally not tested. Many are DOA. Reeds are expensive and don’t last more than 8 weeks in a 3 reed rotation and they generally retail from $20-$35 EACH! That is a lot of money. Yes, you can find them for less, but you won’t like the inconsistency and sound. We also lose a lot of reeds to mold & mildew in our climate.
- A lot of mass marketed bassoon reeds have the same name, but they outsource to dozens of reed makers. You will not get the same setup every time. Consistency in shape, scrape and thickness is important.
- You want to purchase from a reliable reed maker who is consistent and makes their own reeds. They may cost a little bit more, but they are worth it in the end. Some have school discounts.
- If you know the reed maker, they can make the reeds of different lengths to help with hot or cold weather tuning issues and different shapes for different ability levels and face sizes.
- Please see my reed page.
www.learntworeed.com/bassoon-assembly--care.html
How do you moisten a bassoon reed?
- Since a bassoon reed consists of four surfaces, it must be soaked in water. Two minutes is usually long enough, but soak a new reed for 5 minutes. I prefer to soak the entire reed to allow the tube to make a snug fit on the bocal. A dry tube may leak. Caution: If you are using mass manufactured reeds, the turban may slip if you soak it or not. This happens because the tube constricts and is not properly glued or grooved. Some manufacturers use a non-colorfast thread and the reed can turn pink.
- It is actually pretty easy. I tell the kids to “kiss grandma”. When they insert the reed they don’t inhale their lips, but it still provides the right amount of firmness without biting. If you are using a good bassoon reed, the reed should do most of the work.
- I am partial to the ProTec 5 bassoon reed cases. They have a wide hinge which allows the reeds to dry out.
- It is VERY important for the bassoon to be swabbed every time it is played. Please allow time at the end of class for the boot and wing to be swabbed. Water collects in the "U" at the bottom of the boot. If it is placed into the case without swabbing, the water will run up into the unprotected side and cause wood rot.
- Please encourage your students to keep their instrument upright at all times to avoid the water running up the unprotected side of the boot.
- Bassoon reeds are very prone to develop mold on the surface and inside of the tubes. When the reed is soaked, these spores go into the water. I had a student who consistently drank his reed water and he ended up in ICU with a systemic fungal infection. I discourage it. Students should use fresh water each time they play.
- Once a week have your students use ½ water and ½ peroxide in a small bowl or coffee cup. Add about ½ oz of mouthwash or mint alcohol. Put the reeds in and let them soak until they stop foaming. Take a soft toothbrush and brush from the wire to the tip to remove debris in the grain.
- Take a tone hole brush and use it to clean the inside of the tube. Rinse with clean water, blow the water out and place on a paper towel to dry. Put a desiccant pack in the reed case in an empty slot.
- The Legere reeds are very pricey ($150). They are limited in dynamic range, have varying tone quality and they tend to split and splinter. If find they also collect a great amount of moisture and require continual blowing out. The quality is still not good. In short, they are ok to practice on, but you don’t want them used in a concert.
- Bassoon reeds open and close with the weather. You can and should help your student adjust the opening, about 3-4mm, with a small pair of pliers, gently squeeze a soaked reed at the first wire from side to side to open and top to bottom to close. Avoid doing this with your fingers, as you can slip the blades.
- Try to avoid letting the student play on a reed that is too closed. It sounds thin and buzzy, but they like it because it is easier to blow.
- Flicking, is tapping one of the 2 keys on the back of the wing joint when playing notes from A2-C2 (top of the bass clef staff). If the key is not flicked, the bassoon will growl, grunt or crack. Venting (holding the key), is possible, but causes the notes to go quite sharp. Not using the flick keys is like trying to play a clarinet or saxophone without a register/octave key. It might work, but it won’t be very reliable or sound pretty.
- The first key that goes up on the wing joint is for flicking “A2”. The next up is for flicking Bb2, B2, C2.
- I teach my students to flick the note when it is first introduced. I have found that students that have it introduced even one year later take years to work it into their fingerings.
- Bassoons expand and contract with the weather, even the plastic ones. The reason we don’t use cork is when maple expands it gets too big to go into the tenon. With the thread, you can remove some and all is good. In the winter you will need to put some back on as it gets loose. Use #20 size cotton, Poppy red crochet thread, or any color you like.
- This is a result of cork grease being used on the cotton tenon thread. It eats the thread. Use paraffin wax to lubricate the joint. I make small paraffin cubes for each student out of canning wax and I put them in a small zip bag. They simply rub it on and rub with their hand. Friction melts it into the thread.
- Again, this is an experience with expanding wood. As the wood expands the posts can bind. Simply loosen the screw a small amount and retest the key. DON’T ADD OIL! If it is still binding, you may need to lightly file the rod side of the post slightly.
- I have found that it is often not the student being reckless and catching the pad with the bocal pip. It is actually the stop block in the case that more often catches the pad. These are easily replaceable. I suggest keeping a few on hand. Out of 40 bassoonists, I replace approximately 10 a year.
- Be sure the student is holding the bocal at the top of the curve. If they hold from the end and pull down, the bocal can split. An inexpensive “C” bocal for a plastic Fox Renard bassoon is $250. The *CVX* bocals for wood Artist models 220-260 are $750
- When you student moves from place to place with their bassoon, they should remove it (by pulling and twisting holding the curved portion) and then place it into their bell. Do not let them put it into the bocal receiver by the tip. A small bump can easily cause a bend here.
- Bocals should be cleaned at least every other week by the student using a bocal brush, nylon bristles on a wire snake. Use running water and a small amount of non-abrasive dish soap (Dawn). I don’t recommend using a pipe cleaner because they can leave cotton fibers behind. I like to get mine sonic cleaned when the bassoon goes in for summer repair. The debris that can build up is nasty! Do not use a bocal swab! They get stuck and the bocal is often damaged in removal.
- Bassoons are great at picking up finger prints. Using a cotton cloth, spray a small amount of “Pledge” or similar furniture polish onto the cloth, not directly on the bassoon. Wipe down the wooden areas.
- The bore of the bassoon should be oiled annually with mineral or boiled linseed oil. You will need a stick swab or oiling swab to accomplish this. First thing, any pads that are in contact with the body (closed position), need to have a square of waxed paper put under them. If oil gets on the pads, they might need to be replaced. Do not oil tone holes, only the bore.
- You can, but you will pay dearly to have the hand cut cork replaced. Best to leave this to a repairman.
- Generally the cleaning kits include a lot of things your student will not use. Many of them include cotton swabs for the wing, boot and another for the bocal. I suggest only using a silk swab. Silk will fit both the wing and boot joints and is less prone to sticking. The picture to the left is what I have my students get. Miller Marketing Company makes a special kit price. http://www.millermarketingco.com/ebook/foley.htm Normally $140, it is $132.05 with free shipping.
The music that requires Tenor Clef isn’t seen until high school or college. When should I teach it?
- I begin teaching tenor clef to my students in the spring semester of beginning band, sooner if they have played piano and already read music. Just like flicking, the earlier they learn it, the easier it is.